Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Gucci: Cruise 2023 Review

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From California to Puglia, the globe-trotting parades of Cruise 2023

As a new season of resort shows unfolds, Wallpaper’s ongoing report takes you from San Diego to Puglia with the world’s biggest brands

A new season of Cruise parades – far-flung parades that take place in some of the world’s most breathtaking locations – has begun, coming back strong after a two-year hiatus. From a waterfront in Monaco to a 13th-century castle in Puglia, this globe-trotting report takes you around the world for the most extravagant fashion presentations of the year.

The best shows of Cruise 2023

Chanel, Monaco

Located on Avenue Princesse Grace – named after Monaco’s most famous royal export – the Monte-Carlo Beach Hotel has long been a playground for the rich and famous, the kind of jet-set guests for whom the Cruise collections have a unique appeal. Chanel creative director Virginie Viard chose the hotel’s beachfront promenade as the runway for the house’s cruise return, as guests watched from huts along the shore. Viard’s collection drew on the principality’s glamorous history with a playful collection referencing Formula 1 (all-in-ones, Chanel helmets, checkerboard prints), casinos (handbags in the shape of slot miniature coins, gambling token earrings) and famous photographer Helmut Newton. Monegasque images of women in swimsuits by the beach. The late Karl Lagerfeld, Viard’s ancestor at home, was not entirely absent from the proceedings: the sprawling Villa La Vigie, his beloved residence in the city, could be seen in the distance as the show unfolded. below, later providing the venue for a lavish after-party.

Louis Vuitton, San Diego, USA

Nicolas Ghesquière has long embellished his Cruise collections for Louis Vuitton with gems of modernist architecture, from John Lautner’s Bob Hope Estate in Palm Springs, California, to the saucer-shaped Museu de Arte Contemporânea de Niterói by Oscar Niemeyer, which overlooks Guanabara in Rio de Janeiro. Bay. For Cruise 2023, attendees were flown to the California city of San Diego for a show that took place at the Salk Institute, a science research center built in 1960. Founder Jonas Salk reportedly asked architect Louis Kahn a “installation worthy of a visit”. by Picasso’; his response, a large travertine thoroughfare leading out to the ocean with two angular concrete buildings on either side, through which a picture-perfect California sunset can be seen. It was at this time that Ghesquière chose to hold her show, which oscillated in a typical time-warping style between vast, tight-fitting dresses like those worn by the ancient inhabitants of the desert – “goddesses”, the designer proposed – and stylish riffs on sportswear (the prints referencing colorful graphics on jet skis). Other elements took advantage of the venue’s unique light, with high-shine fabrics in gold and silver, metal studs and rivets, and strands of twinkling tinsel. “I wanted the clothes to be like reflections, a point of contact between light and people,” he said.

Gucci, Puglia, Italy

Gucci “Cosmogony” collection

Alessandro Michele has long been drawn to the mystical; Zodiac symbols, ancient mythology, magic and metamorphosis have been referenced in various forms in its idiosyncratic collections. For his latest, Michele traveled to the Puglia region of southern Italy, hosting the show in the historic 13th-century Castel del Monte, unique for its octagonal inner courtyard and the octagonal symbolism repeated in the design of the building (the reasons for this remain a mystery; some have argued that it was a mystical spiritual retreat site, no doubt appealing to Michele’s sensibility). The collection itself, entitled “Cosmogony”, is inspired by the legacy of a more contemporary thinker: the German philosopher Walter Benjamin. A profound treatise by the designer that accompanied the show spoke of Benjamin’s conception of “constellation thinking,” his ability to weave connections between disparate lines of thought. “It is not that what is past sheds light on what is present, or that what is present sheds light on what is past; rather, the image is where what has been comes together in a flash with the now to form a constellation,’ Benjamin said as quoted by Michele. This idea of ​​constellations spilled over into a collection that grandly combined the medieval with the modern, showcasing the designer’s own ability to connect a chorus of inspirations across time and space. Finally, a moment of astral projection: images of star constellations were illuminated on the walls of the old castle.

Dior Homme, Los Angeles, USA

Kim Jones chose the Venice Beach district of Los Angeles to present his spring 2023 menswear collection for Dior, a choice that reflects the partnership at its center: a joint collection with Eli Russell Linnetz, the American designer behind the brand in vogue of Los Angeles ERL, which calls the local oceanfront home. Linnetz is known for his playful riffs on California surf and skatewear, which saw him nominated for this year’s LVMH award; this collection, which took place under the hashtag #DiorERL, continues a banner year for the rising designer. Taking place on Windward Avenue – the famous thoroughfare on which “Venice Beach” is strung with lights – the capsule collection united ERL’s loose American-inspired silhouettes with the intricacy and precision of the Dior atelier (a heather gray hoodie was sewn with a wave of silver sequins and beads, for example, or heavy quilted skate shoes to evoke Dior’s famous cannage pattern). The spirit of the collection is expressed in an omnipresent slogan: “Californian Couture”, a nod to this meeting of two distinct universes.

Balenciaga, New York, United States

The trading floor of the New York Stock Exchange served as the backdrop for Balenciaga’s Spring 2023 collection, as masked models – faces and bodies almost completely obscured by latex catsuits – strolled between screens that shimmered with market updates and the logos of major American companies. Beginning with the ringing of the trading floor bell, the collection offered Demna’s vision for the season in three parts: evening wear (“extra formal” wide-cut tuxedos, silk trench coats, bodycon black dresses), wardrobe (a new line of “wardrobe basics in elevated cuts, clean finishes and luxe materials”) and finally, revealed for the first time, a collaboration with Adidas. The latter provided the show’s hottest moment, including items that mixed Balenciaga silhouettes with the Adidas Trefoil logo and signature “three stripes” pattern on oversized tracksuits, bomber jackets, totes and handbags. The designer said the collection was an “emergency”; at its far end, the screens in the room flickered and shone and went black. §
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