This Peel-and-Stick Wallpaper Moment Only Took Four Hours to Install | Architectural Summary


Once the lines were drawn, she brought the wallpaper panels up against the wall, allowing her to see how the pattern would end in the corner.

Step 4: Unroll the first roll of peel-and-stick wallpaper

Dallery uses the smoothing tool to push out the air bubbles.

Photo: Marc Vaughn

“Panel placement is really important,” says Hunt. Place the first roll where the wall meets the ceiling, leaving a slight overhang, about five inches. Slowly unroll the wallpaper using the straightener to remove any air bubbles. “I figured out how to hang it perfectly straight with an extra pair of hands,” says Dallery. His secret: “the wallpaper spoon”. Find someone to hold the roll of wallpaper directly behind you – hence the spoon – that way you can use both hands to line up the wallpaper when starting a new row. “A little clunky, but very effective,” she says. “If the first six inches of the roll are slightly twisted, there’s no attachment to the wall. It’s about starting each roll with precision.

Also plan for some overhang at the bottom.

Photo: Marc Vaughn

Because the bedroom walls are lightly textured, Dallery found it easier to use her hand to smooth out the wallpaper, then use the straightener to tackle stubborn air bubbles. Unroll the roll of wallpaper to the bottom of the skirting, then use a straightener to adhere it flush to the surface. Leave a little overhang, cut the excess with scissors. Save the rest of the roll for less visible corner panels; you will probably need to put two shorter rolls together.

Pro tip: Hunt likes to use EZ Hang to allow for slight movement and easy lifting to correct alignment once peel and stick wallpaper is applied. Keep in mind that you don’t want to spray it where the ceiling meets the wall. “You wouldn’t want to ‘slip’ at that point; the wallpaper should hold when you pull it up and peel it off,” says Hunt. After shaking the EZ Hang bottle for about a minute, spray the middle section and towards the baseboard, but not the baseboard itself as you will want some grip there as well. Once the wallpaper is cut (slightly beyond the skirting, for extra length), you can maneuver the panel into place.

Step 5: Check your measurements and level again

Check the center panel with a level.

Photos: Marc Vaughn

As Dallery began to hang the second roll, she soon realized that when the two panels connected, the horizontal lines of the wallpaper pattern no longer matched. “It’s very difficult to detect if the roller is straight,” she says. “I found that I couldn’t look at it or use the ceiling as a guide. The wallpaper was only a millimeter or two up the wall, then at the bottom it hung askew almost one inch to the left. She took a level from the ceiling and found it slightly tilted. To solve the problem of the crooked panels, Dallery took the level back to the original center panel and double-checked that it was straight. She then traced several horizontal lines, using the grid line of the hanging panel, across the wall, which served as a guide.”I would caution anyone new to wallpapering how unforgiving a pattern like plaid can be” , she says.

Step 6: slightly overlap the seams of the wallpaper

As you hang each new wallpaper panel, lightly overlap each new roll over the one already on the wall. According to Hunt, overlapping is a bit more forgiving and gives novice wallpaper installers more leeway in terms of pattern matching. Alternatively, you can try matching the edge of each panel, also known as butt stitching, but this application is pattern dependent. Butt joints can also cause an opening, especially if the wall is domed or protrudes slightly in one place. Dallery’s wall had such a place. “It’s like you’re lining a globe,” she says, but she was able to avoid gawking thanks to the ride.


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